Five Holy Sarovars

Art and Architecture

The architecture of Sri Harmandir Sahib represents a unique harmony between Hindu and Muslim way of construction work and is considered the best architectural specimens of the world. It provides the rarest of art work to the visitors and art lovers visiting the shrine. The art displayed is a rare work of craftsmanship by Sikh artists. This architecture has created an independent Sikh school of architecture in the history of art in India.

All the domes, inner walls and the door panels exhibit gold embossed work. Special designs have been given to the copper sheets and then covered with gold leaves. Similar work can be seen on the inner roofs as well. The beautiful designs depicting birds, animals, flowers and humans have been engraved in the marble walls and then studded with colourful semi precious stones which turn it into a great art of work.

Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji

By 1601, the structure of Sri Harmandir Sahib was ready but Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib knew that it is still in complete so he went one more step ahead. At the start of the century, he started compiling the authentic Bani (spiritual verses/religious hymns) of his predecessors. He also added the compositions of Sants, Bhagats, Shaiks and Bhats of known affinity. Bhai Gurdas ji helped him in taking down every word into manuscript while it was dictated by Guru Sahib sitting beside the Ramsar Sarovar. The compilation was completed in August 1604 and was known as Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji (Sikh Scripture). Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib installed Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji in Sri Harmandir Sahib ceremoniously and chose Baba Buddha ji as the first Granthi (the reader of Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji). After this ceremony, it attained the status of ‘Ath Sath Tirath’ and the Sikh nation had its own Tirath, a center of pilgrimage.

Sri Akal Takht Sahib

In Sri Harmandir Sahib, the highest temporal seat of Sikhism Sri Akal Takht Sahib (Throne of the Almighty) was founded by sixth Guru, Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib in 1609. Guru Sahib used to hold his court here listening to the woes of the poor and the needy. Guru Sahib also wore two swords of Miri and Piri (temporal and transcendental authority). Two flags which represent temporal and spiritual authority (Sikh sovereignity) have been set up in front of Sri Akal Takht Sahib. They have always stood as a symbol of political and military resistance against the tyranny and cruelty of 17th and 18th century rulers.

Here, the priests recite Rehras Sahib (the evening prayer) and Ardas with a naked sword in the hand. Some rare weapons pertaining to the Sikh Gurus and Sikh warriors are displayed during the day in Golden Palanquin and its history and importance is explained to the visitors from time to time. The total effect of Sri Akal Takht Sahib and the open courtyard in front of the Darshani Deori is of a unique and noble structure.

Darshani Deori

Darshani Deori is the main entrance leading to the pathway to Sri Harmandir Sahib. As soon as Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is taken for Sukh Aasan (for rest at night) to Sri Akal Takhat Sahib, the gates of Darshani Deori are closed from inside. The sewadars (attendants) on duty allow only devotees with special permission from the Gurdwara authority for taking part in the night sewa (cleaning and washing of the sanctum sanctorum). Every morning hundreds of devotees gather in front of the gate of Drashani Deori, recite the Shabads (hymns) till the gates are opened for the day.

This Deori was beautified with marble and wall painting work during the time of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The main doors of the Deori are decorated with silver sheets on the one side and decorated with beautiful inlay work comprising ivory work on the other side.

Har Ki Pauri

Hark ki Pauri are the steps on the backside of the Sanctum Sanctorum where devotees bow down to have a hand full of Amrit (Nectar) from the Amrit Sarovar. The legend goes on that when the excavation and digging of the Amrit Sarovar and the construction of Sri Harmandir Sahib was being done, The Almighty God himself took part in this cause at this very place.

Ramgarhia Bunga (Towers)

The word Bunga stands for a place to live. During the Sikh Empire, Sikh Generals and Royal Families got almost 100 Bungas constructed in the walled city of Amritsar. There used to be 22 watch towers around Sri Harmandir Sahib in order to keep an eye on the invaders. As the time passed, twenty towers got demolished and only two adjoining Ramgarhia Bunga survived.

Prominent Sikh leader and fearless warrior Jassa Singh Ramgarhia got the Ramgarhia Bunga constructed in 1755. Its structural design, layout and marble work and the painting designs on the walls make it different from the rest of the buildings. The Bunga houses Diwan-e-Khaas accommodating royal seat and the roof of the hall is supported by 44 stone pillars representing a fine work of Sikh school of architecture and stonework. The royal seat is placed at a level much below the level of Sri Harmandir Sahib which testifies the faith and respect in Guru Sahib, his technical skills, planning and insight for architecture. A prison is located underneath the royal seat and the treasury opposite to the same.

Gurdwara Lachi Ber

The jujube tree is the place where Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib used to sit and supervise the entire construction work of Sri Harmandir Sahib and the Amrit Sarovar. In the year 1740 when Sri Harmandir Sahib was occupied by a Mughal official Massa Ranghar, two Sikh warriors Bhai Sukha Singh and Bhai Mehtab Singh reached Sri Harmandir Sahib posing as farmers to pay tax to the Mughals. They tied their horses with this jujube tree, went inside, severed the head of Massa Ranghar and went away.

Ber Baba Budha ji

It is an old jujube tree that stands on the northern side of the sarovar in the parkarma (compound). Baba Buddha ji used to sit under this tree and supervise the digging and excavation of the sarovar and the construction work of Sri Harmandir Sahib. Today a marble platform has been built around the tree which still stands there with the help of chained iron supports.

Dukh Bhanjani Beri

Duni Chand Khatri was a rich land lord of a town called Patti. He had five daughters, all were beautiful and talented. One day Duni Chand asked his daughters that who provides them all the meals and takes care of them. Elder four daughters were quick to say that their father was providing them everything and taking care of their lives but the younger daughter Rajni said that it is God that takes care of all the living beings.

Ath Sath Tirath

While moving in the outer parkarma of Sri Harmandir Sahib around the Amrit Sarovar next to Dukh Bhanjani Beri is the place known as Ath Sath Tirath. This place signifies that anyone who takes a holy dip here with devotion will have the benefit of visiting 68 holy places.

There is a marble palanquin on the raised podium where different small pothis (manuscripts) of Gurbani were kept after they were obtained from the families of the Gurus. These manuscripts were brought to Amritsar in a royal way for the compilation of Sri Guru Granth Sahib ji by the fifth Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib.

Diwan Hall-Gurdwara Manji Sahib

At Diwan Hall Manji Sahib, the daily “Hukamnama” or the “Order of the Day” is explained to the devotees twice a day, morning and evening. A widely spread and covered hall just opposite to Langar Hall is a congregation hall. At Diwan hall the Bani (hymns) are explained every morning and evening by the priests (the priests conversed with concept of Bani and Sikh history).

The concept of explaining Bani was first initiated by Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib himself and the same tradition is being followed even today. Within the Diwan hall complex, there is a small raised platform which is covered with a marble top where Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib used to sit and recite Barah Mah (Bani related with the description of twelve months according to lunar system). He used to sit here on a manji (cot) with the devotees sitting in front of him.

Gurdwara Tharra Sahib

This Gurdwara is built on the north of Sri Akal Takht Sahib in a narrow street called Bazar Tharra Sahib. When Sri Guru Teg Bahadur ji became the ninth Guru of Sikhs in 1664, he was meditating at Baba Bakala for almost 11 years. Guru ji visited Amritsar to offer prayers at Sri Harmandir Sahib but the priests who belonged to the rival Mina faction closed the doors and didn’t allow Guru ji to enter. Guru ji then sat at this place and offered his prayers to the shrine and went back. It still has a base of an old tree which is believed to be the one under which Guru ji sat and prayed.

Gurdwara Guru Ke Mahal

Guru Ke Mahal situated in the west of Sri Akal Takht Sahib across Guru Bazar market. It is one of popular gurudwaras and a must visit shrine in Amritsar because it used to be the residential place of the three Guru Sahibs. In the year 1573, Sri Guru Ram Das Sahib constructed a small room. Later it was extended and renovated by Sri Guru Arjan Dev Sahib and Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib and then it was converted into a Gurdwara. Sri Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib and Baba Atal Rai ji were born here. Every year, the birth anniversary of Sri Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib is celebrated here as a main festival. Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is placed on a platform raised on the ground floor inside this three storeyed shrine. The basement has a meditation room where the Guru Sahibs used to meditate and compose sacred hymns. Apart from the daily rituals, special divan and Guru Ka Langar are held on the first Sunday of a Bikrami month.

Bunga Baba Deep Singh Ji Shaheed

Shaheed Bunga Baba Deep Singh Ji is situated in the prakarma (compound) of Sri Harmandir Sahib. Baba Deep Singh Ji was the leader of the famous "Shaheedan Di Misl" and actively participated in all the major battles that took place in the 18th century. This place stands in the honor and memory of Shaheed Baba Deep Singh Ji, a great Sikh warrior who sacrificed his life for the dignity of Sri Harmandir Sahib while fighting the Mughals. In 1757, Sri Harmandir Sahib was invaded by the Mughal forces and their leader Jahan Khan disrespected the shrine and filled the Amrit Sarovar with debris and garbage. At the age of 75 years, Baba ji pledged to take revenge and formed his army of 5000 brave Sikhs.

An army of 20,000 Mughal soldiers marched towards Amritsar and both the forces faced each other. The Sikhs fought with such bravery that the Mughal army ran for their lives. After a long battle, Baba Deep Singh ji had a severe blow on his neck and he was badly wounded. A Sikh warrior reminded Baba ji of his vow to reach Sri Harmandir Sahib. Baba ji then gripped and supported his severed head with his left hand and held his 15kg Khanda (double edged sword) in his right hand. He moved forward killing the Mughal forces with his Khanda which terrorized the enemies and they started running. When Baba ji reached Sri Harmandir Sahib, he bowed and laid his head on the parkarma and sacrificed his life for his Guru.

Gurdwara Baba Atal Rai Ji

This Gurdwara was built in the memory of nine year old Baba Atal Rai ji, son of Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib and Mata Nanki ji. He was born in 1619 and died at a small age of nine years in 1628. He was very intelligent and intensely religious and was called “Baba” (Baba means wise old man) because he carried a wise head over his young shoulders. Baba Atal ji had a close friend called Mohan with whom he used to play everyday. One day after the game at his home, Mohan was bitten by a cobra during the night.

Next morning when Mohan did not turn up for the game, Baba Atal ji enquired about Mohan from the other boys. Baba ji went to Mohans place and saw his family mourning. When Baba ji came to know that Mohan is dead, he walked upto his dead body and asked him to get up from the sleep as they were getting late for the game and it was Baba Atal ji’s tuen to bat. The moment Baba Atal ji touched Mohan with his stick; he stood up while his family members were astonished and shocked.

When Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib came to know about this, he called upon Baba Atal ji and told him that he has done a wrong thing as no one should interfere in the will of the almighty. Baba Atal ji realized that he has upset his father so he took Guru Sahib’s permission and went to pay a visit to Sri Harmandir Sahib. He took a dip in the holy sarovar, offered his prayers, took four rounds of Sri Harmandir Sahib and lay down on the ground in the parkarma with his stick beneath his head and left for his heavenly abode.

A 9-story octagonal building depicting Baba Atal Rai’s nine years of life stands in his memory just few yards away from Sri Harmandir Sahib. This building is now a beautiful nine storied Gurudwara known as Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib. It is one of the most attractive architectural structures and the most touching place of worship in the Sikh religion.

Langar Hall

Sri Harmandir Sahib runs one of the largest langar halls (free kitchen) in the world, serving vegetarian food to more than hundred thousand people everyday. The concept of langar was started by Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib. Anyone regardless of caste, color, creed and religion can have a meal at langar sitting in a queue and forgetting all the differences that separates human being from each other. All Sikh Gurdwaras have langar but the one at Sri Harmandir Sahib is the biggest of all.

Two hundred thousand rotis (flat bread), two tons of Maa di Daal (black lentil) and cooked vegetable is served to more than one hundred thousand people on every single day making it one of the biggest free kitchen. The kitchen is run by five hundred staff members with sewa (community service) from hundreds of volunteers. These volunteers cut vegetables, cook food and rotis, wash plates, spoons, bowls and other utensils used in the kitchen. Today this kitchen has its own automatic roti machine that makes twenty five thousand rotis an hour without a human touch.

Central Sikh Museum

Sikh museum was established in 1958 and is currently located on the first floor of Sri Harmandir Sahib. It displays paintings of Guru Sahibs, saints, warriors and other prominent leaders who have contributed to the enhancement of Sikh religion. It has a rich collection of coins, old arms and weapons including guns, swords and daggers, ancient manuscripts, hand written scriptures by different Guru Sahibs and also a library.

A visit to Sri Harmandir Sahib is incomplete without a visit to Sikh Museum. The great artists like Kirpal Singh, Thakur Singh, Sobha Singh, Phulan Rani, Parbodh Chandra, Gurdit Singh and Amolak Singh added to its beauty by painting the Sikh history on canvas. Musical instruments like Saranda of Baba Sham Singh ji, rarest stringed instrument like Sarangi, antique Harmonium, Khartala, Veena, old Tablas, Mardang, Dholak, silver tent poles (chandi di choban) which were used to erect tents during the Maharaja Ranjit Singh times are preserved in this museum.